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Showing posts with label Hannibal. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hannibal. Show all posts

Wednesday, 9 March 2016

Sagunto: City of Ages. Pt.1. When Hannibal attacks.....

Sagunto - City of Ages


Part 1 - When Hannibal attacks….


The modern city of Sagunto holds a unique place in the historical and cultural heritage not just of Valenciana, but of Spain itself and, in a wider context, of the Mediterranean as a whole.  It sits on the Mediterranean coast some 30km north of Valencia and has historical origins going back over 2500 years to before the Roman occupation began in the area c.219 BC.  


The most compelling reason explaining the initial settlement here, as early as the 5th century BC, is the strong strategic position that the slopes and ridges of (what is now called) Castle Hill provided and where today the extensive remains of Castle Murviedro, the centrepoint of ancient life in the area, can still be explored.  With the Espadán mountains to the north, the Calderona mountains to the west, the fertile plain (the Horta Nord) of Valencia to the south and the ocean to the east, the first walled settlement, unfortunately named Arse, was in a strategically strong defensive position that allowed it to dominate the locality.  This fact is backed up by local archaeological evidence where from over 20 contemporary Iberian sites, Arse-Sagunto was clearly the largest.  Furthermore, with a flourishing port established at Grau Vell, the early inhabitants were able to exploit existing trade routes around the Mediterranean coast, particularly with the Phoenicians (from North Africa) and Hellenics (the Greeks) spreading their influence far beyond the Iberian peninsula.

The castle battlements line the top of the mountain looking much like a sleeping crocodile from afar.


Today the remains of the castle can be seen from every approach road into Sagunto as they tower over the city like a benevolent protector.  They stretch for approximately 800m atop the last ridge of the Calderona mountains with the castle walls running in an east-west direction.  However, any description of the castle, with it’s vast and varied history telling of the many alterations, repairs and restructuring undertaken in turn by the Romans, Muslims and Christians cannot ever encompass the true story of this amazing fortress.  


Following the signs for the ‘historic centre’ you wind your way through the modern houses and pisos to the old town with it’s distinctly Medieval flavour and ancient cobbled streets that lead you inevitably upwards towards Castle Murviedro.  On the way you pass by the excellent and aesthetically pleasing Museum of Archaeology for Arse-Saguntum and Castle Murviedro sited in La Casa del Mestre Peña (Master Peña’s House) and housing artefacts and collections from over 400 years of archaeological excavations.  


As you continue up the hill, passing by numerous quaint café’s, restaurants and souvenir shops the castle begins to dominate the vista more and more.  


When the castle itself first comes into unobstructed view, sprawling across the rocky promontory high above, the immediate feeling it conjures is one of heroic bygone days, of mythical heroes steeped in romance and mystery, of courageous, embattled defenders withstanding the onslaught of relentless, fearsome invaders as they throw themselves at the walls in the vain hope of gaining a foothold, whatever the cost, on the impressive walls or a first step onto the towering bastions, to etch their name forever into folklore, their story told around campfires for generations afterwards.  


It is not hard to stand at the base of the walls and be filled with a sense of awe for the courage and resolve of the men and women, defenders and attackers both, who sacrificed everything for the glory, advancement and future of their people and families.  It is a fearsome castle to behold, making one feel small, almost insignificant, besides the seemingly impregnable walls and all the blood that has been spilled here over the centuries.  


The site of the original Iberian settlement took the rather unfortunate name (for English speakers at least) of Arse, which it kept until adopting the Romanised name of Saguntum probably sometime in the early 2nd century BC.  Arse, built by the Celt-Iberian tribe, the Edetani, is thought to have covered about 8-10 hectares and was protected by a double defensive enclosure consisting of an outer wall (usually the biggest structure) and an inner perimeter wall and perhaps provided shelter and probably housing several thousand people.  Today the only part of the Iberian settlement that remains is a small section of the inner wall which can be seen at Tres Pouels (Three Little Wells), just outside the existing castle walls at the western end.  This wall was constructed of cyclopean limestone boulders, probably quarried locally, which were basically large, roughly worked polygonal blocks which would have had their exterior faces hammer-dressed in situ by masons and then assembled without mortar in an amazing feat of engineering when you consider the difficulty of transporting rocks of such a size to the location (each rock must weigh several tons), and the staggering precision and longevity of the construction itself.


As fearsome as the ramparts are today the exact scale of the structure facing Hannibal and his army in 219BC is unknown but they are thought to have been substantial.  The siege itself lasted 8 months, with Hannibal’s army destroying the castle defences bit by bit until finally, the end came.  


However, this wasn’t a mindless foray by an overeager young Commander hoping to merely stoke up the enmity with the Romans and maybe make a name for himself along the way.  Hannibal was a man with a plan and Sagunto was just the first step on what was to be a very long road.  For several years before Hannibal had been sending envoys across the Pyrenees into Gaul, and further still across the Alps into Cisalpine Gaul, to survey putative routes for his future Italian campaign and to sound out possible anti-Roman feelings among the native peoples en route.  So by the time Hannibal laid siege to Saguntum the plans for his monumental expedition were already well formed in his head.  Revenge would be sweet!


The lessons of the loss of the First Punic War were ingrained well into Hannibal by his father, Hamilcar, and so Hannibal was well aware that his people’s main weakness, when compared with Rome, was their lack of a native army.  The Carthaginians were a nation of traders and their armies had always been mercenaries, so that when, following the death of his father in battle and brother-in-law, Hasdrubal (assassinated), and at the age of 24, Hannibal gained command of the Carthaginian forces in Iberia, he purposefully set out to build a new type of army.  Using his (doubtless) immense personality and force of will Hannibal firstly consolidated the military and economic gains of his predecessors, then construed to pull those ‘conquered’ Iberian tribes south of the Ebro river under his banner making them allies and, in so doing, procuring the best parts of their armies for himself and to further his own precocious ambitions.


He then trained this army in almost constant warfare for nearly 3 years against any remaining Iberian peoples, engendering the loyalty of his multi-cultural band to his banner, so that by the time they arrived at Sagunto they were a well-oiled military machine.


Having been watching the Carthaginian progress from afar the Romans were more than a little disconcerted at what they saw.  With Hasdrubal having built upon Hamilcar’s initial successes the Romans now sought to stifle the progress of the Carthaginians in Iberia which, in the long-term, they themselves coveted.  Yet with insufficient military resources available to mount any sort of campaign in Iberia, the Romans thought to tie Hasdrubal to a treaty which limited the extent of his (and Carthage’s) ambitions to land (and hence, tribes) south of the Iberus and furthermore, it compelled both sides to ‘avoid’ annoying each other’s allies in the region.


Sagunto, which lay far south of the Iberus, (so in theory within Hasdrubal’s agreed territory) was a protectorate of Rome and, as the wealthiest city on the Iberian Mediterranean coast, was considered an important ally.  Hannibal would have been well aware of this and of the potential consequences of violating the treaty.  But his hatred for Rome and all things Roman was awe-consuming.


Having sworn an oath of enmity against the Romans at the age of 9 (which he honoured till his death in c.181BC) in the wake of the economic and social hardships suffered by the Carthaginian people and imposed by the Romans after the First Punic War, Hannibal had pre-meditatively set out to provoke his hated enemy.  And as we know, he more than succeeded.  


The Saguntines had pleaded with their Roman protectors to send help, but the Romans were preoccupied elsewhere with the Gauls and Ilyricans and had no manpower to spare and their pleas only received a mute response, such that when Hannibal finally offered terms the Saguntines knew there would be no Roman salvation for the city.


However, Hannibal’s terms were harsh, but after 8 months fighting and many lives lost he was in no mood to be generous.  He had insisted that the city be evacuated, the population to leave unarmed and with only two garments apiece.  When they refused these terms, returning to their homes to begin destroying what valuables they had left, Hannibal, upon entering the city, put every adult to death; a sorry end for what had been a stoic and brave resistance.


Having plundered the city, Hannibal returned to New Carthage, modern day Cartegeña, to regather his resources and recuperate before beginning his epic journey in May 218BC.  The Romans voiced their disapproval by sending emissaries to Carthage to demand Hannibal be turned over to them for justice.  When the Carthaginian Council refused, War was declared and the Second Punic War had begun.



Wednesday, 18 February 2015

Local history: The story of Old Domeno

Domeño Viejo


Spain is rich in it’s cultural and historical heritage.  Hemmingway’s vision of Spain, abundant in fiestas and bullfighting, is hard to resist, but for me the largest cache of Spanish bullion lay in the fraught and ever-changing history of the Iberian peninsula, and so it is with this in mind that I bring you the first of (hopefully) many articles on sites of historical interest in and around Valencia.  


It is hard to drive any distance here and not be confronted with a crumbling castle on a distant hill top or the remains of an old defensive wall battered into submission in a battle long forgotten.  Domeño Viejo is one such ruin that might well catch the eye of a conscientious observer.  A friend, Javi, first told me of the plight of the old village one hot afternoon as we swam in the Loriguilla dam and it makes quite a tale and inspired me to find out more.


The crumbling ruins of the old castle. 
The ancient pueblo of Old Domeño has been interred in a watery grave beneath the Loriguilla dam, some 45kms or so up the CV35 from Valencia, since the valley was flooded in the late-1970‘s.  All that now remains are the ruins of the old church and castle, both of which escaped the fate of the town by virtue of their more lofty locations.  Both still sit several hundred metres above where the pueblo once was. However, even these remains take some searching out, but once found the views alone more than reward the avid explorer.  The views, from the castle in particular, are absolutely stunning and on a clear day give one a 360° panoramic vista that can take the breath away.


A small sign, easily missed, indicates the old Church yard.

Both the church and the castle can be found off the CV-35 about 10km beyond Losa del Obispo in the direction of Ademuz.  The tracks, turning left of the CV35, are accessible by car but rough, so not to be attempted in wet weather unless you have a 4X4, but then a clear day is best anyway, for the view if nothing else.  The church can easily be missed with only the arched gateway and one perimeter wall remaining.  However, the site is marked by a small sign and, if you get out of the car, it is possible to peer over this wall and see the ancient graveyard, with its’ traditional burial caskets, built one on top of the other.  Now all empty, at one time these stone carved sites would have held the bodies of the local gentry.


Archaeological evidence suggests that this valley was occupied as early as the 4th or 5th Century B.C. with flint tools having been unearthed in local caves.  Later Bronze Age settlers also left behind ceramic shards to hint at localised cultural advances.  From about 500 B.C. much of what is now Valenciana was settled by the Edetani, a tribe of Iberians and the Loriguilla valley was no different.  The Edetani, who counted Lliria as their capital, were successful on a localised scale and their impact was felt all across the region.  Following the First Punic War (247-241B.C) Hamilcar Barca (Hannibal’s father) led an expedirion to the Iberian Peninsula in 237 B.C. founding the city of Carthage (named after his beloved home city, also called Cathage) on the Mediterranean coast on the site of the modern day city, Cartageña. The Romanisation of the Iberian peninsula began sometime in the 3rd Century B.C.  But following the defeat of Hannibal (in Italy) and the Carthaginians in the Iberian peninsula (c.206 B.C.) the Second Punic War came to a close and the Romans began a long war of attrition against the determined Iberian tribes determined to bring Iberia under unified Roman rule.  But the Iberian tribes put up a resolute defence and despite the centuries of repression that followed the whole peninsula never truly came under complete Roman rule, largely due to the unending mountainous terrain (very few Roman roads were constructed here unlike elsewhere) and the subsequent difficulty with maintaining adequate supply and communication lines.  That, and the often long distances between settlements of any size made life difficult for the invading Romans, but also contributed to the relative isolation of the various Iberian kingdoms, leading much later on to the distinct identities, cultures and languages we still see today across the peninsula, facts that no doubt served to undermine the collective Spanish psyche nullifying that unified sense of nationalism found elsewhere in Europe until very recently.    


In the autumn of 409, as Roman influence and power began to fade across the Mediterranean and a year before the Goth, Alaric, sacked Rome, three tribes, the Alans, the Sueves and the Vandals crossed the passes and cols of the Pyrenees to enter the Iberian peninsula from their homelands in Aquitaine, perhaps by invitation of the Roman garrisons guarding said routes (another story in itself).  These new invaders finally displaced the Iberian tribes and by about 480 had all but subdued and conquered the peninsula (apart from Galicia).  Their reign continued until 711 when the next wave of invaders, the Berbers, under Arab control of General Tariq, ousted the Goths and began the Islamic occupation of the peninsula that would last the best part of a 1000 years leaving behind a unique cultural and historical heritage that still resonates across Spain and Portugal to this day.


From the top the views are amazing.
It was the Muslims who first built a castle on a small hilltop above Old Domeño, though evidence of that is now hard to see given the ramshackle state of the ruin.  The castle, sitting atop a small flat-topped hill with panoramic views all round, would have been easily defensible if attacked.  The approaches are steep and rocky and any attackers would have been assailed from on high by archers, slingers and anyone capable of throwing a rock, making it a dangerous and difficult place to breach. Today however, if one climbs up the roped-off track to the castle ruins, it becomes clear that for any dwellers there, this would not have been the place to sit out any sort of lengthy siege.  The castle itself must have been small and pokey, with little storage space for food, water and arms and would surely have been extremely cold in the depths of winter due to its’ highly exposed position.


Despite these potential drawbacks, the castle remained occupied even after the Muslims were defeated and the Christian armies of Don Jaime I of Aragon occupied the region in 1238.  Old Domeño then came under the remit of the Chelva Manor, owned by Pedro Fernandez de Azagra, Lord of Albarracín.


The castle was partially renovated during the First Carlist War in the 1830’s but appears to have fallen into disrepair once again soon afterwards and now all that remains are a few walls and fallen rocks that merely hint at the building that once dominated the landscape.


The ruins are far from spectacular (I must be honest) but the views alone make it a worthwhile trip and climb, and if like me, you love your history, then to stand in amongst it is reward enough.  Afterwards, one can drive down through the tranquil Loriguilla valley and find any number of beautiful, deserted, shady spots to swim and cool off on a hot day.  Take a picnic and a good book, along with your camera and imagination, then after a spot of exploring, drift off in your mind to time less complicated and dream of the romance of times gone by.  


Mini the Moocher - Travel Correspondent...back soon with more tourist stuff!!!